Brian’s Travel Spot: Bright Angel Trail

Descending in the Grand Canyon from the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse along the Bright Angel Trail.Welcome to the third instalment of the latest Travel Spot, which takes us back to October 2016 and my first visit to the Grand Canyon, part of a wider trip which took me to Phoenix for the first time for work. With a spare weekend at the end, and knowing nothing about Phoenix (a city I’ve since come to know very well), I decided to visit to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, somewhere I’ve always wanted to go. This post covers my day-long hike down into the Grand Canyon on the Bright Angel Trail, before I retraced my steps back to the rim.

I was staying in Tusayan, a small town just outside the southern edge the Grand Canyon National Park, having driven there from Williams on Saturday morning. That afternoon, I drove into the National Park for my first look at the Grand Canyon. To help get my bearings, and to acclimatise for my main hike on the following day, I took a leisurely 4½ hour, 13 km hike along the Rim Trail to Hermits Rest. Then, on Sunday morning, I drove back to the Grand Canyon to tackle the Bright Angel Trail.


Since this is quite a long post (it was, after all, quite a long hike), I’ve split it up as follows:

You can see what I made of my hotel and read my thoughts about the Bright Angel Trail after the gallery.

  • The Canyon Plaza Resort, my home for my two nights at the Grand Canyon.
  • It's a sprawling place, built a bit like a motel, with external access to the rooms.
  • I was up here, on the top floor.
  • Not much of a view though: just more hotels and car parks!
  • Mind you, check out my room! It's huge.
  • The desk was very welcome for catching up on Coffee Spot writing...
  • ... although the two beds were a bit overkill. That said, what's that door at the back?
  • Why, it's my very own balcony! It comes complete with views...
  • ... out over the restaurant which is located in the middle of the hotel.
  • It looks quite cosy down there. Anyway, I hadn't come for the hotel, I'd come for...
  • ... a hike into the Grand Canyon, courtesy of the Bright Angel Trail. However...
  • ... for that, you'll have to wait just a little bit, since I'm going to leave you here at the top.
The Canyon Plaza Resort, my home for my two nights at the Grand Canyon.1 It's a sprawling place, built a bit like a motel, with external access to the rooms.2 I was up here, on the top floor.3 Not much of a view though: just more hotels and car parks!4 Mind you, check out my room! It's huge.5 The desk was very welcome for catching up on Coffee Spot writing...6 ... although the two beds were a bit overkill. That said, what's that door at the back?7 Why, it's my very own balcony! It comes complete with views...8 ... out over the restaurant which is located in the middle of the hotel.9 It looks quite cosy down there. Anyway, I hadn't come for the hotel, I'd come for...10 ... a hike into the Grand Canyon, courtesy of the Bright Angel Trail. However...11 ... for that, you'll have to wait just a little bit, since I'm going to leave you here at the top.12
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Before I talk about the hike itself, a few words about Tusayan and about the Bright Angel Trail. I was staying in the Canyon Plaza Resort, one of several large hotels in Tusayan. It was effectively a bed for two nights, but as you will have seen in the gallery, my room was pretty impressive, with plenty of space and an interior balcony looking out over a courtyard restaurant. It’s certainly somewhere you could base yourself for an extended stay, although there’s not much to Tusayan itself, just hotels, a few restaurants and a couple of general stores.

I had breakfast at the hotel, then stocked up on food for the hike at one of the general stores. Although you can get provisions at the Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim (where the Bright Angel Trail starts), I figured that it would probably be cheaper and easier to get things in Tusayan. I also brought plenty of water with me. Although water is available (depending on the season) on the Bright Angel Trail, you are well advised to take enough water with you for the length of your trek and you definitely need to take plenty of food since there’s nothing available on the trail itself.

The Bright Angel Trail, which is just over 15 km (9½ miles) long, descends over 1,300 metres, all the way down to the Colorado River, where you can cross to the other side and hike up to the North Rim. It also connects with a number of other trails on the southern side of the river, giving you several options if you don’t want to retrace your steps. However, most of these will involve an overnight stay, since hiking as far as the river and back in a single day is not recommended, while hiking all the way to the North Rim is definitely a two-day affair. It’s also worth noting that, other than camping, there is no accommodation inside the Grand Canyon itself (and I had no camping gear with me). With all that in mind, I limited myself to a day-hike with the aim of getting as far down the Bright Angel Trail as I could before turning around and retracing my steps back to the rim.

The good news is that Bright Angel has several convenient turnaround points, including the Mile-and-a-Half and Three-Mile Resthouses (1½ and 3 miles into the canyon respectively) and Indian Garden (about 7 km or 4½ miles), where you’ll find a campground. From here, Bright Angel continues down to the Colorado River, while a side trail leads to Plateau Point, which overlooks the river. My aim was to get at least as far as Indian Garden and, if I had time, to make the round trip to Plateau Point (5 km/3 miles there and back) before returning to the South Rim.

You can find out whether I made it in the rest of the post, starting with my initial descent from the rim, which you can read about after the gallery.

  • Bright Angel Trail, as seen from the South Rim, with Mary Colter's Look Studio on the left.
  • A more detailed view, looking straight down onto the trail, which is still in shadow.
  • The signs marking the start of the trail, with the Kolb Studio in the background.
  • Some information about Bright Angel Trail (taken from a National Park leaflet).
  • I took a screenshot on my phone before setting off: 10:25 in the morning.
  • Let's go!
  • A quick look back after five minutes, with the trail descending via long, looping switchbacks.
  • And a look down into the Canyon, the trail hidden from view on the right.
  • Good to know: when mules pass, stand to the inside of trail. Follow mule guide instructions.
  • As the path descends, so more of it comes back into view. Here's the trail just below...
  • ... and here are more switchbacks lower down, plus Indian Garden in the valley bottom.
  • A wider panorama.
  • I loved how close you get to some of the shear rock faces.
  • So close, in fact, that the trail actually tunnels through the rock at one point.
  • Looking back up. I've been going 20 minutes and already descended 180 metres!
  • Mind you, there's still a long way to go! Indian Garden is the stand of trees at the valley...
  • ... bottom and this is Plateau Point (to the right of a blackened tree trunk).
  • The first of many views back the way I'd come, wondering 'how did I get down that?'
  • More close up views of the shear walls of rock on the western side of the valley.
  • In particular, I love how clearly you can see the different layers of rock.
  • More geology. The layers in the previous photo are on the top left of this one!
  • That loop, down below, is still some considerable way off!
  • Enough admiring the views. Time to crack on. The trail is (relatively) flat for a bit before...
  • ... I suddenly reach my first stop, the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse, which appears above...
  • ... the trail. There's not much to it, but it's a welcome stopping off point.
  • There's also a handy thermometer. It was 12°C at the rim and it's the same here (53°F).
  • I also took another screenshot as a record of my progress: 11:11. Not a bad pace!
  • The view from the 'window', looking across the canyon. The other structure is a...
  • ... toilet block, set slightly to one side, just off the main path.
  • I thought I would pay it a visit (the doors are on the other side).
  • Then, with a last look at the way I'd come...
  • ... it was time to continue down the Bright Angel Trail.
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The early stages of the Bright Angel Trail are well-maintained, a broad path descending (relatively) slowly via a pair of long switchbacks which cut along the near vertical rock walls at the top of the valley. After about 15 minutes of walking, you are almost back where you started, directly beneath the Kolb Studio, albeit about 100 metres lower!

The trail continues via a short tunnel cut through the rock, after which the switchbacks start to get a lot tighter and steeper, the trail descending rapidly between two sheer walls of rock, the switchbacks expanding like a fan as you descend. At the bottom of the switchbacks, the trail flattens out again and it’s a relatively straight and (comparatively) flat ½ km hike to the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse. This suddenly appears a little way above the trail on the right, accessed via a short side trail that loops up and back on itself.

There’s no obligation to stop, but by this point I’d been going for around 45 minutes, having covered 1½ km and descended 340 metres, so I thought it was time for a break. There’s not much to the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse, just four stone walls with a roof, an opening for a door and three more for windows. There’s also a thermometer mounted above the door which read 53°F (12°C), the same temperature that my phone had registered at the start of the hike.

One of the interesting things about hiking into the Grand Canyon is that you start by hiking down. Pretty much all the hiking I’d done up until that point was either along things (coastline, rivers, etc) or up things (hills or mountains). Hiking up mountains means you do the hardest part (in terms of physical exertion) when you are at your freshest, with the return down the mountain at the end of then day when you were tired.

In contrast, doing a day-hike into the canyon means that you start with a significant descent, then, when you are tired, end the hike with an equally significant climb. I think I’m in a minority of hikers who prefers it this way around. While going up requires more effort, I find going down much harder on my joints and I’d much rather do that when I’m fresh than at the end of the day when I’m tired and more likely to make a mistake. It also means that by the time I’m coming back up, my pack is a little bit lighter, since I’ve eaten most of my food and drunk my water!

Something I’ve learnt from many years of hiking is to pace myself, so I took a decent break at the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse, staying for around 25 minutes. This was enough time to catch my breath and have a bite to eat (another lesson I’ve learnt while hiking: eat small amounts frequently rather than have one or two larger meals).

My final act before carrying on down the Bright Angel Trail was to visit the toilet block. This is a separate (and more substantial) building off the trail to the right. This, by the way, is not for a faint-hearted. It’s a pit toilet, with three separate cubicles, each no more than a seat above a hole in the floor which opens over a massive pit some considerable distance below. The smell, shall we say, is rather strong!

With that out of the way, I carried on, heading for my next stop, the Three Mile Resthouse. You can see how that went after the gallery.

  • I set off from the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse with a backward glance at the amazing scenery (you can just about make out the Resthouse on the left below the enormous rock pillar).
  • This section of the hike took me from Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse to Three Mile Resthouse.
  • Again, I used screenshots on my phone to track my progress, departing at 11:35.
  • Beyond the Three Mile Resthouse is Indian Garden, and maybe (for me), Plateau Point.
  • The valley's western side towers over me. I was up there the day before on the Rim Trail!
  • The trail descends via a series of switchbacks, the first of which crosses to the other (west) side of the valley before returning...
  • ... to the east side, where it carries on descending, clinging to a tall ridge, alll the way to...
  • ... Three Mile Resthouse, which is on that narrow promontory. This photo was taken...
  • ... from the tip of this switchback, seen here from above earlier in the hike.
  • The view the other way, where once again I'm left wondering how the trail got down here!
  • Enough admiring the views and looking backwards. It's time to press on.
  • Although I saw the sign about the mules, this was as close as I got to meeting any!
  • If you look very carefully, you can just see the Three Mile Resthouse on the promontory.
  • Across from it, the left (west) side of the valley was formed by this amazing...
  • ... sandstone ridge which I'd seen the day before, when I was looking down from...
  • ... Maricopa Point. The rock formations at the top look very different from down here!
  • The valley drops steeply away to the left of the trail, which leads straight for...
  • ... Three Mile Resthouse (in the foreground) with its toilet block beyond it to the right.
  • Five minute's walk later and here I am, approaching Three Mile Resthouse.
  • Like Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse, there's not much to it.
  • There are simple openings for the windows and a narrower one for the door...
  • ... above which is another thermometer.
  • This one reads 66°F (19°C), significantly warmer than it was at the top!
  • As before, I was using screenshots on my phone to track my progress.
  • The view out of the door, looking back the way I've come. I did like the tree, which stood...
  • ... near the junction in the paths. To the left is where I've come from, the trail heading...
  • ... back up to the rim, while to the right it continues to descend towards Indian Garden.
  • The view out of the window, looking west across the valley to the sandstone cliffs.
  • In this view, you can just see Maricopa Point at the top, above the sandstone cliffs.
  • This time I had a 20 minute break, then it was time to head off again...
  • ... descending into the valley via a series of switchbacks on my way to Indian Garden.
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From the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse the Bright Angel Trail carries on for another 2.4 km (1½ miles) to the Three Mile Resthouse, descending a further 305 m along the way. Unlike the first section of the trail, where the bulk of that descent is in the initial stages, here the descent is steadier. At this point, I was is still near the top of the side valley, which the Bright Angel Trail follows from the rim all the way down to Indian Garden.

The Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse is at the top of a narrow ridge on the eastern side of the valley. The direct route down is to follow the top of the ridge as it descends, but to make things easier for the likes of me, the trail takes a series of switchbacks of ever-decreasing size, the first of which is quite shallow, taking in a large loop which crosses a dry stream bed to on the other side of the valley before returning to the eastern flank.

From here, as the valley broadens and the bottom drops away, the trail clings to the side of the ridge on the valley’s eastern flank, descending via the ever-decreasing switchbacks. Crossing another dry stream bed, the trail clings to the flanks of a second ridge as it too drops towards the valley floor, ending in a promontory which houses the Three Mile Resthouse.

I left the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse at 11:35, arriving at Three Mile Resthouse just under 45 minutes later, a near identical pace compared to my first 2.4 km. One of the counter-intuitive (but obvious when you think about it) things about hiking down into the Grand Canyon is that it gets warmer as you descend. I’m used to hiking up mountains, where it gets colder the further you go, so I have to put on additional layers the higher I get.

Here I was starting at the top (at an elevation of over 2,000 m), where it was a wonderfully cool 12°C, an ideal hiking temperature. There hadn’t been any drop in temperature on my way down to the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse, but it was still relatively early and that part of the valley was in shade for much of the morning. In contrast, by the time I arrived at the Three Mile Resthouse, which had been in the sun for a while, it was already up to 19°C, my floppy sunhat had come out and I had started shedding layers.

Like the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse, there’s not much to the Three Mile Resthouse. It’s right at the tip of the promontory, overlooking the valley below, and is set slightly above the main trail and accessed via its own path, with another pit toilet block beyond that (which I decided not to visit). The construction is also similar, with four rough, stone walls, a tiled roof and openings for a door and three windows. The main difference is, unlike the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse, which very much sneaks up on you (on the way down), the Three Mile Resthouse is visible from a long way off (practically from when you leave the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse).

In all, I stayed for 20 minutes, catching my breath, having something to eat and enjoying the views. Then it was time to go, this time down to the valley bottom and Indian Garden.

In all, I stayed for 20 minutes, catching my breath, having something to eat and enjoying the views. Then it was time to go, this time down to the valley bottom and Indian Garden.

  • The next stage of my hike will take me from Three Mile Resthouse to Indian Garden.
  •  It begins with a steep descent from Three Mile Resthouse which you can just see...
  • ... behind that tree at the top of the promontory.
  • Timecheck: I'm setting off at 12:40.
  • The trail descends swiftly via a series of switchbacks down the side of the promontory...
  • ... on its way to the valley floor below.
  • I was fascinated by (but largely ignorant of) the geology. What are those white sections?
  • Admiring the rocks, I heard something that caught my attention. Do you see that black dot?
  • It's the Grand Canyon National Park Service helicopter! Imagine flying that for a day job!
  • The switchbacks continue down...
  • ... before flattening out towards the valley bottom. You can just see Indian Garden...
  • ... while beyond that is Plateau Point, my ultimate destination (if I have time).
  • One of the many times I looked back and thought: how did the trail get down from there? There, by the way, being the trailhead at the dip in the rim above/to the left of the path.
  • A few minutes later, and here's a view of the other side of the valley. This is actually looking in the direction of travel, the trail doubling back on itself as crosses another ridge.
  • Neat cave.
  • The bottom of the loop, looking at the top of the loop, where I took the photo before last.
  • Shadow-selfie time.
  • And, looking back, there's the sun, now risen well above the South Rim.
  • The helicopter is back again.
  • It's weird, looking down on the helicopter.
  • By now, the trail has reached the valley bottom and from here it's a shallow descent to...
  • ... Indian Garden. This is the pipe that supplies water to various points on the trail.
  • Wildlife! A rare sighting!
  • Keeping the path well maintained is a full-time job. The workers were nearby by the way.
  • Another look back, with the trail pointing directly at the trailhead on the South Rim.
  • At the bottom of the valley, the trail crosses multiple dry stream beds and then...
  • ... it reaches Indian Garden, a thin stand of trees running along the Garden Creek.
  • Indian Garden extends for around 400 m, with the trail running through it.
  • There's a ranger station down here...
  • ... and a campground, which, in the middle of the day, was fairly quiet!
  • And, of course, there's a toilet block.
  • Time check. Honestly, I'm not making this up: it was 46 minutes from Three Mile Resthouse. What a remarkbaly consistent pace: 2.4 km every 45 minutes!
  • This is what the presence of water will do: it's wonderfully green in Indian Garden.
  • A panorama from the campground, where I stopped for a break, looking back to the South Rim. I've got to decide: press on to Plateau Point or turn back now? Read on to find out.
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From Three Mile Resthouse, it’s another 2.4 km (1½ miles) to Indian Garden, descending 280 m, slightly less than the previous two sections. As it did at the start of the Bright Angel Trail, the bulk of this descent comes at the beginning of the section, with the trail quickly dropping down the western flank of the promontory via a series of switchbacks, from where I caught my first glimpse of the Grand Canyon National Park Service helicopter, which was buzzing around over Plateau Point.

Once the trail reaches the valley floor, the descent is much gentler, although there is one more extended switchback, the trail doubling back on itself as it goes round the final part of the ridge that Three Mile Resthouse sits on. From there to Indian Garden was the easiest section of the trail so far and soon I had reached a large information sign.

This marks the southern boundary of Indian Garden, which extends for about 400 m along the Garden Creek. Although the creek bed was dry, given how green the area was, there was obviously water not far below the surface. Compared to the rudimentary nature of the Mile-and-a-Half and Three Mile Resthouses, Indian Garden is a metropolis, with a ranger station, a large campground, several shelters and another toilet block.

I stopped at the campground, having completed the third 2.4 km section of my hike in 45 minutes, which capped a remarkably consistent pace. I had something to eat and drink and then assessed my options.

From Indian Garden, the Bright Angel Trail carries on north, following the Garden Creek as it drops steeply down to the Colorado River at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. I’d already ruled that out, since it was a two-day hike if I wanted to get to the river and back, and I didn’t see the point of just going a short way down before turning around.

The Tonto Trail, running east to west, crosses the Bright Angel Trail just north of Indian Garden. The trail is over 150 km long and is entirely within the canyon, never reaching the rim at any point. From here, I could follow it west, where it connects with the Hermit Trail, or east, where it connects with the South Kaibab Trail. However, going in either direction involves a two-day hike, so, like a descent to river, that had already been ruled out.

That just left a simple choice: carry on north along the Plateau Point Trail for some views over the river before returning to Indian Garden, or turn back now and leave Plateau Point for another time.

It was now 13:50 and it had taken me 2¼ hours to hike down to Indian Garden, plus another 45 minutes resting along the way, making a total of three hours. The standard (cautious) advice when hiking the Grand Canyon is to allow twice as long to get back up as it took you to get down, which would suggest six hours for my return. However, over many years of hiking, I’ve learnt that I descend slower than average and go up comparatively faster, so I was budgeting for the hike back to take 50% longer, or 4½ hours.

That would get me back to the trailhead at 18:20, or, to put it another way, about twenty minutes after sunset. This wasn’t ideal, but having been on the Rim Trail at dusk the day before, I knew that there would be more than enough light for me to complete the final part of the hike. And, having come down that way, I knew that the conditions under foot would be fine.

However, it meant that a hike out to Plateau Point and back was out of the question. I really wanted to do it, but I was going to have to save it for another day. So, with some reluctance (and acknowledging that I really do need to get up earlier!), I put my pack back on, turned around and started the long trek back to the trailhead.

You can find out how I got on with my hike back to the South Rim after the gallery.

  • Time to leave Indian Garden on the return leg on my hike. This is the route ahead of me, all the way to the trailhead at the top of the valley, the (apparent) lowest point on the rim.
  • Pretty much all of the Bright Angel Trail is in this shot, from the path at my feet...
  • ... to the toilet block at Three Mile Resthouse, which is on its promontory, all the way...
  • ... to the trailhead, above the dark, vertical notch where the trail ascends via switchbacks.
  • A timecheck before I set off. It's 13:50, which gives me just over four hours before dusk.
  • As before, I'll do Bright Angel Trail in stages. First, Indian Garden to Three Mile Resthouse.
  • The trail crosses the dry steam bed of the Garden Creek...
  • ... and before long I'm passing the same sign which welcomed me to Indian Garden.
  • I can't get over how magnificent the landscape is. Even though I've seen it all on my way down, I kept stopping to take photos.
  • This one, for example, is almost identical to one from my descent. Same spot, same view.
  • I made good progress on the (relatively) flat section south of Indian Garden...
  • ... although, looking ahead, it's going to get a lot steeper soon!
  • A better shot of the water pipe I passed on the way down.
  • I'm back at the last big switchback from my descent. This is the view from the middle.
  • Hello. Who is this on the trail with me?
  • That's the biggest animal I've seen in the canyon.
  • Obviously lunchtime.
  • A quick look back from the top of the switchback.
  • Nice tree.
  • It was at this point that I heard the helicopter again, only time it was a lot closer.
  • And I mean a lot closer, as in almost overhead. It then passed out of sight (and sound).
  • Next came the first really hard climb of the return, the seemingly endless switchbacks...
  • ... which led up to my old friend, the Three Mile Resthouse.
  • A quick timecheck. It's 14:49, almost exactly an hour after leaving Indian Garden!
  • I soon found out where the helicopter had gone. It had landed on some open ground...
  • ... just behind the Three Mile Resthouse. I spent my break chatting with the pilot...
  • ... and admiring the scenery.
  • I checked the temperature at the resthouse: 70°F or 21°C, a little bit warmer than before.
  • After a twenty minute rest, it was time to be on my way again.
  • I remember this tree from my descent. Just beyond it is the split in the trail. The path...
  • ... to the right will take me back down to Indian Garden, while the left returns to the rim.
  • A quick look back tells me that the helicopter is still there.
  • Still there. Although now there's some activity...
  • ... and if you look carefully, you can see that the rotors are moving.
  • I think that the pilot is getting ready to go.
  • All aboard!
  • And we have lift-off!
  • This is the non-zoomed in view.
  • The helicoptor quickly gains height.
  • If you want to know how quickly, this is just five seconds after take off!
  • The helicoptor turns...
  • ... and, dipping its nose, heads off into the canyon...
  • ... gaining speed all the time. Just 25 seconds after take-off...
  • ... and it's back to a dot on the horizon. Read on to find out why it was there.
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I left Indian Garden at 13:50 to start my hike back to the rim. The return leg begins gently enough, slowly ascending the valley as the trail runs parallel to the dry stream bed of Garden Creek. However, once you reach the promontory beneath the Three Mile Resthouse, it rapidly becomes a slog, the path climbing steeply via the numerous switchbacks. It took me 25 minutes from leaving Indian Garden to the first of the switchbacks and a further 35 minutes to make it back to the top. In contrast, earlier in the day I’d made it down the switchbacks in just 20 minutes, taking an identical 25 minutes to get from the bottom to Indian Garden.

On my way up, I heard the Grand Canyon National Park Service helicopter again. This time it was a lot closer, flying almost directly overhead before disappearing from both sight and hearing. Since I hadn’t seen it fly back out of the valley, I could only assume that it had landed somewhere, although looking at the surrounding terrain, I really wasn’t sure where it could land!

I discovered the answer to my conundrum when I got to the Three Mile Resthouse at the top of the switchbacks. This is built on the tip of the promontory, beyond which is the toilet block while, right at the tip, there’s a rare flat piece of ground. This is where the helicopter had landed, with the pilot sitting a little way off on some rocks.

I had intended to take my break in the resthouse, but it soon became apparent that this wasn’t going to happen. A hiker, on his way up from Indian Garden, had got into difficulties, experiencing shortness breath, so his daughter, who was hiking with him, had called for help on the emergency telephone in the resthouse. The hiker was now in the resthouse, being attended to by a paramedic, who was the helicopter’s other crew member.

Having nowhere else to go, but still needing a rest, I went to chat with the pilot, who confirmed my suspicions that he did indeed have the best job in the world, getting to fly around the Grand Canyon every day. He also told me how few landing spots there were this high up in the canyon, which, given the terrain, wasn’t surprising.

Chatting with the pilot, I found out what would happen next. Assuming the hiker couldn’t continue, he’d be airlifted to the Grand Canyon Village, a service provided free of charge by the park service. However, there was a sting in the tail: anyone airlifted out is met by an ambulance which takes the casualty to a hospital in Flagstaff and that leg of the journey is charged at normal (eyewatering) US rates. Having been in an ambulance in the US and seen the bills that were sent to my insurers, I can confirm that this isn’t something you want to have to pay for out of your own pocket!

I’d been there for about 15 minutes when the paramedic returned, confirming that the hiker would indeed need medical evacuation, so I took this as my cue to get out of the way while the pilot started preparing for take-off. The final indignity in all this is that while the hiker got airlifted out, there was no room for his daughter, so she had to continue her hike out, then make her own way to Flagstaff to the hospital at the end of it all.

I set off for the next stage of my journey at 15:10, getting a short way up the trail before turning around to watch the helicopter depart. Then it was back to the hike.

You can see how the rest of my hike, all the way to the trailhead, went after the gallery.

  • And I'm on my way. Here's the view back the way I've come...
  • ... with the Three Mile Guesthouse (sans helicopter) which I've just left, and, down in...
  • ... the valley, Indian Garden, with the Garden Creek to the left, trail to the right.
  • Just another 2.4  km and 305 metres of ascent to go before my next break.
  • And, as always, a quick timecheck. I left Three Mile Resthouse at 15:11.
  • I kept stopping to look back at the sweep of the Garden Creek valley.
  • I still can't get enough of that sandstone ridge.
  • Or, for that matter, of the layers of rocks on the north side of the canyon.
  • Looking directly ahead, that's Bright Angel Canyon, the most direct route to the North Rim.
  • It's (relatively) easy going at first, but then the switchbacks start.
  • Onward and upward.
  • Mind you, looking back, I've already climbed quite a way from Three Mile Resthouse!
  • That said, there's still a long way to go to the top. Check out the dry water course.
  • My immediate destination: the toilet block at Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse.
  • And here in more detail.
  • Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse is to the right, but I have to turn left to get to the toilets.
  • At this stage of the hike, it hurts to have to walk even a short way in the wrong direction!
  • Next stop, the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse and then up to the trailhead at the rim.
  • This is another of those 'how does the trail even get to the top?' moments.
  • Okay. Enough thinking. Time for a break at the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse.
  • Just a quicktime check before I sit down: 16:19. Not too bad.
  • The thermometer reads 58°F (14°C), only slightly warmer than on the way down.
  • The view from the resthouse 'window', with Indian Garden and Plateau Point visible.
  • Okay. 16:39. Time to go. I've got one hour and 20 minutes until dusk.
  • In that time, I've got to get all the way back to the top if I can. Just another 340 metres.
  • I set off again, but kept stopping to look back. I can't get enough of that view.
  • The trail is relatively flat at first and fairly easy going...
  • ... but then come the switchbacks as the trail climbs between two sheer rock faces.
  • The view back down the valley. Now I know it's there, I can see Three Mile Resthouse.
  • The view back along the lower reaches of the switchbacks...
  • ... and the view up ahead. I'm not the only one heading out before dusk.
  • By now, the evening sunlight is picking out the colours on the north side of the canyon...
  • ... which contrast wonderfully with the shadows it is casting.
  • You're going to see a lot more views like this between here and the top.
  • By now, I'm almost at the top of the switchbacks, which is marked by this...
  • ... tunnel through the rock. It also means that I'm roughly halfway through the last leg.
  • In many ways, it's reassuring to know that I'm not the only one on the trail.
  • More amazing colours.
  • The view to the nortwest...
  • ... and directly north.
  • I'm on the long, looping switchbacks now, very nearly at the top...
  • ... so naturally I stop to take in the views. I can still see Three Mile Resthouse!
  • Should I be worried that someone is hiking down into the canyon this late in the evening?
  • Or should I just admire the views?
  • The views (and the colours) win.
  • Maybe I could just sit here and admire the views for the rest of the evening...
  • Such amazing colours.
  • It's not just the colours on the North Rim though. It's also the clouds, both on the far...
  • ... side of the canyon and closer to hand on the South Rim.
  • Talking of which, there's the Kolb Studio, very much at the end of my hike.
  • I can't go without a last look at the amazing views and colours though.
  • It's amazing!
  • And here I am, back at the top.
  • I made pretty good time in the end, getting to the top just before dusk...
  • .. and, perhaps more importantly, before the ice cream parlour closed at six o'clock.
  • With apologies for the blurry canyon (my focus was on my ice cream), I'll leave you here.
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Mercifully, after the climb up to Three Mile Resthouse, the trail starts off comparatively gently as it makes its way back up the canyon towards the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse. Unlike on the way down, when the resthouse suddenly appears above the trail, on the way up, its much more visible, perched on the narrow ridge below the sheer rock faces just below the canyon’s rim.

After the relatively gentle start, things get harder as the trail reaches the next set of switchbacks, marking in the climb up to the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse, where I took another break. By this time, I was starting to feel the strain: it had taken me 45 minutes to get between the two resthouses on the way down. On the way back up, it took me an hour and 10 minutes. This was 10 minutes more than I’d take between Indian Garden and Three Mile Resthouse, although that first leg had only involved 280 metres of ascent, while getting to the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse meant climbing 305 metres.

On that basis, my rate of climb was fairly consistent, which is what I would expect and, overall, I was making good time. I’d reached the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse at 16:20 and, after resting for 20 minutes, I set off again, with just the final 340 metres of ascent to go. More importantly, I had an hour and 20 minutes before dusk, so I was confident I would make it.

Of course, the trail saves the hardest part for last as, once again, there’s a relatively easy section immediately after the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse, followed by the fairly brutal switchbacks which climb between the two sheer faces of rock to where the trail tunnels through the rock itself. From there the worst was behind me, although I still had more than 100 metres of ascent to go.

I didn’t help myself by continually stopping to look back, partly to admire the views and pick out landmarks where I’d been, but also to take in the increasingly stunning sunset. This progressively illuminated the north side of the Grand Canyon, bringing out some amazing colours. As good as the sunset had been the day before, this was so much better.

I eventually reached the trailhead ahead of schedule at 17:50, completing the final leg in an hour and 10 minutes and the whole ascent in just four hours (compared to three hours going down). I was pleased to have got back before dusk, but perhaps more importantly, I’d made it before the ice cream parlour closed at six o’clock. I rewarded myself with an ice cream before heading back to my car for the drive back to my hotel and some well-earned rest.


This concludes my hike down the Bright Angel Trail and back. The final instalment of the trip, which covers my last morning at the Grand Canyon, my drive back to Phoenix and my flight home that evening, will be along shortly.


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2 thoughts on “Brian’s Travel Spot: Bright Angel Trail

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